Litko Aerosystems bases Sunday, Aug 22 2010 

I just got my order of 50 80mmx40mmx.08mm plywood bases from Litko Game Accessories (formerly, Litko Aerosystems).

Wargame bases and Warmaster figures.

Goblin wolfriders keen to get onto a new Litko plywood base.

I am really impressed with them — they are laser cut, so they are absolutely straight and square. Well, they are rectangular, but the corners are square.  From purchase to arrival in at my home in Canada was just under a month, though I picked the slow, cheap shipping option.

These will be the sabots upon which I mount more Warmaster figs for use in Impetus and Basic Impetus Fantasticus.

Happy Gaming,

Dan

Lovely Vintage ECW Battle Report Saturday, Jul 31 2010 

This is a lovely account of a table top English Civil War battle from 1977, on Vintage Wargames.

Off to do a Basic Baroque game tonight, armed with two bottles of Sea Dog.

Happy Gaming,

Dan

Warmaster rebased for Basic Impetus Fantasticus Friday, May 28 2010 

Been a week — put my back out then got a miserable cold or flu. I’ve gotten nothing done in a week, but maybe I can manage to post a picture.

10 mm figures for Impetus and Warmaster

Warmaster and Impetus Fantasticus miniatures on my workbench.

This picture shows Warmaster and Battle of Five Armies units. In the front are 3 Warmaster Troll Slayers, based for Impetus. I’ve left them on the Warmaster stands, but glued them to a sabot. The sabot is 80mm x 40 mm, plastic sheet from a modelling store. I think it is 1.8 mm thick — thick enough not to be floppy, but thin enough to cut with a paper guillotine. I’ve just used Crazy glue to attach, since I can easily pop the stands off if/when I go back to Warmaster. Each sabot holds four Warmaster stands.

Note that I’ve based my Trollslayers with a single strip per stand for Warmaster. I used to think it was blasphemous, but played against some guys who based their missile troops with just a single line per stand. It actually looks way better! And your dollar goes twice as far, an important consideration when dealing with the filthy moneygrubbers behind Games Workshop. Missile troops, special troops and light infantry look good this way. Heavy infantry and mobs look better with two strips (12 figs) per stand in Warmaster.

Behind the Troll Slayers are BoFA goblins and Warg Riders, as well as a unit of Wolf Riders from Warmaster. All are still based for BoFa and Warmaster.

Happy Gaming,

Dan

Wars of the Roses Saturday, Jan 9 2010 

Last week’s game got me interested in the Wars of the Roses, a period I’ve never known much about.

Warhammergrimace has done a great post listing a bunch of references to get you started.  I’m currently reading J. R. Landner’s “The Wars of the Roses”, which is described on the page.

He also has a post on painting winter schemes on minis, which reminded me what a great site Brushthralls is.

– Dan

Doctor Faust’s Painting Tips Tuesday, Nov 24 2009 

Great list of painting tips here at Doctor Faust’s Painting Clinic.

I particularly like this one:

I have a good method for pinning.  Hold the joint together as you wish it to stay.  Then, using a fine marker, draw four lines (evenly spaced) across the joint.  Then, on each piece, connect the four marks and drill where “X” marks the spot.  Works every time.  You really can’t screw this one up.

– Brad Grinstead

I also like the approach of just gluing the parts together, then drilling through to pin.

– Dan

Primer on painting Monday, Nov 23 2009 

There’s a good primer on painting (that’s a painting joke… not a good one) that you can find over at AncientBattles.com: Painting101.

While you are at it, check out this fun battle report.

Timely, given that Franaine and I plan to play a Roman action with Basic Impetus next. (Or full IMPETVS if the mailman is quick about it.)

– Dan

Cheap terrain for cow towns Friday, Nov 20 2009 

Scene for an Old West skirmish wargame.

It's quiet -- too quiet -- as the stage coach heads into town.

This picture shows what can be done to make very serviceable terrain, very cheaply.

Franaine set up this table for a “Legends of the Old West” game. The buildings are just corrugated cardboard boxes, painted with some doors and windows cut into them. The box flaps fold to make a roof and you can open them easily to put figs inside.

Leave one flap standing up on the front for the facade that so many frontier buildings had.

Great basing idea Tuesday, Nov 17 2009 

Damn, I just threw out a bunch of these peel and stick tiles, too!

Over at Bob’s Miniature Wargaming Blog, there’s a great tutorial on basing for Impetus. And the rest of the site almost makes me wish I lived in Edmonton. Almost.

But it is hard to compete with Victoria, at least if you are a Canadian city.

Green stuff and other modelling putty Sunday, Nov 26 2006 

Hmmm, twelve days between posts. I suck. But I have a lame excuse. My typing fingers hurt.

Actually, it is both thumbs and both forefingers and they are wickedly chapped… to the point of cracking and bleeding. So how could I be expected to type, really?

This is a cautionary tale for those of you doing modelling, especially conversions. Read the warnings on the labels and take them seriously. My current injuries come from handling the putty with my fingers, while not wearing the gloves that the manufacturer suggests.

Thanks to various dumbass legal decisions south of the border, you can’t drink a coffee without getting a warning that “the beverage you are about to enjoy is hot”. Well, duh.

The end result is that normal people (take me, for example) start to consider warning labels as things that are put on products to protect companies from getting sued by grasping, venal little twerps and their lawyers for truly dubious claims that the judge should dismiss on the basis of the complainant being too stupid to be trusted with a settlement. And so… we stop paying attention. Yes, the net result is that public safety gets compromised, not improved.

Now that I am done blaming everyone but myself, let me get to the point. Read the damned instructions. The modelling putty has some nasty stuff in it that doesn’t react well with skin. The paints that you are using should not be ingested, even in the interests of getting a good point on the brush by licking it. Spray primers need to be used in a well ventilated area, preferably with a mask on.

Learning the hard way,

Dan